GETTING THERE   [MAP]
Three ways:-
(1) Ferry: Mallaig -> Inverie
(2) Ferry: Arnisdale -> Barrisdale
[NOTE added 11th May 2003 - Boatman is Len Morrison tel: 01599 522 352 - information from a correspondent called Ronald Turnbull (Thanks Ron)]
(3) Drive: Ft William -> Invergarry -> Kinlochhourn, then walk
     If you are wise, you will go to Knoydart when the weather is fine. When the depressional winds take a southern sweep and gales and rain pulverises southern places better used to dry sunny conditions, the North West is often caught in the back-swing, in winds which blow round the northern edge of the depression. That is when sky is unclouded, the waters sparkle with light and the big hills recede into blue haze. All of which, it must be said, usually goes unreported by London based "national" weather reports. They wave a hand at the chart and mutter something about it being "a bit better" in the North West.
     Drive North from Fort William to Invergarry. Then West. The road is fast and smooth with long sweeping bends by the shores of Loch Garry. As it leaves the water's edge and begins to climb a long gradient, slow and turn left on to a thin road which continues along the loch westward to Tomdoun and Kinlochhourn. Twenty miles and more you must travel on this narrow single-track with its sharp bends and diminutive passing places. The scenery is fine, but not always so readily visible. So take advantage. Go slow. Ahead, among those blue hills to the West, is a spot which boasts 200 inches of rain per annum - the wettest in all Scotland. But if you do go slow, take note of the various signs which advise you to use the passing places to permit overtaking. When there is a car behind, pull in. Let the locals get on with their lives.
     Pass the Tomdoun hotel, or stop for coffee. The pink sandstone building is covered with ivy and stands back from the road on a little rise. The Quoich Dam retains the loch of that name. The road is even quieter after that. Mother ewes, with frightened lambs, will stand their ground and try to stare you down. If encounter a brown Highland cow with patient eyes suckling her calf, be patient. Get out the car and flap your arms if you must - but gently, gently. She will lumber off with the calf still greedily butting her udders.
     Cross a long narrow bridge and then, beyond the end of Loch Quoich, the road dives like a submarine escaping danger. Downward it twists between rocks and trees. This is no place for caravans. Not even for cars with trailers unless the driver is particulary expert at backing the trailer. The road emerges on to a flat area at the head of Loch Hourn.
     Kinlochhourn is simply a cluster of buildings. No shops - just a farm and some outbuildings. Provisions must be brought from Fort William. Close by, is the long-stay car park - a small field with a fence and a sign. £1 per night. Further on is the short stay car park. 50p per day. You will be wanting the first of these. Park the car, pay the man at the farm and prepare yourself for the long walk into the Knoydart wilderness on a path they call "the destitution road". Travel light, travel well-shod and travel with a copious supply of anti-midge cream.

Copyright © Hugh Noble, Sept 1999